After a one-night provision stop in Mariehamn, we continued towards northern Åland, which we definitely wanted to visit before the end of the trip. The wind was forecasted to veer to north on Sunday, so we chose an inland route through the round Lumparn bay and spent the Saturday night on an anchorage in the northern part of Lumparn. We had sailed this same route two weeks earlier to the opposite direction and stayed then one night at the cosy Kastelholm guest harbour. The lunch at nearby Smakbyn restaurant was so tasty and reasonably priced, that we wanted to definitely come back.

After the lunch we continued to northeastern Åland. The northerly wind increased towards the evening, so we started looking for suitable anchorages or harbours from the area. However, the new Åland harbour guide, which we had purchased from Mariehamn, did not give too many options for that area. Fortunately, Mr. Google found an article by boating magazine Vene about Simskäla, which should have a visitor’s berth, accessible also with a small sailboat. However, the problem was that waters near Simskäla were not charted – only the rocks appeared to be on the chart, but the depth markings were missing.

We decided to give it a go, and motored very slowly the last mile. I think that our echo sounder did not show depths below 2,4 meters on the way, but the waters near the visitor quay were quite shallow. Dolphin Dance draws 1,6 meters, but the echo sounder was showing about 1,5 meters near the quay. Still we were somehow able to proceed forward and reach the quay. The evening in Simskäla was totally calm and quiet. Despite the high season, there were no other boats in the harbour. The time seemed to have stopped beating and the quietness of northern Åland felt magical.

Minna planning the route to Simskäla
Visitor quay is offered by Stormskärs Värdshus & Konferens
Simskäla is best known as the home island of Anni Blomqvist – 
the author of famous Stormskärs Maja books.

On the following day we bought delicious whitefish from a local fisherman.